Tom Ford,The King of Cool
时尚之王 ——“酷”汤姆
■玖玖 编注
香车宝马、衣香鬓影,是谁成就了世间曼妙女子的不老传说?霓裳翩跹、瞬息万变,谁又是时尚品牌Gucci的秘密武器?Tom Ford,一个被看作感性与不羁的代言词的名字……
We choose our men of the time based on their
accomplishments in certain areas such as business, sports, and politics.
We can't neglect the fashion industry, and if there was one man who
can be selected by us to represent his peers, then it is Tom Ford. He
is a man who entered the crazy world of fashion and still manages to
look sane.1
In 1997, when Tom Ford was 35 years old,
he was voted by People Magazine as one of the worlds 50 Most Beautiful
People. In January 1998, he had his runway debut in the U.S. in Los
Angeles for the AIDS Benefit.2
Hollywood loved him, the press loved him,
and the world's "beautiful people" loved him. With the dawn
of the new millennium, Tom Ford has kept his title as the IT Boy of
the fashion world. His empire has expanded too, with YSL under his belt
plus several fashion houses that Gucci has controlling interest.3
So, what does he think of all of this? In
a People Magazine interview, he quoted, "In the fashion business,
everything is so temporary. Beautiful for three or four months, and
then you're tired of it."
His reign as King of Cool has definitely
lasted more than three months. He has been considered a top designer
for five years now, and he has seen profits soar at Gucci. A great accomplishment
when you consider that Gucci was faltering when he took over as Creative
Director.
Last year, he won the much coveted CFDA4
Womenswear Designer of the Year and Time Magazine named him the Best
American Designer.
"People are buying into your dream....To
create that world sucks the soul and personality out of a designer.
The Gucci stores look like my house. My sofas are in all the Gucci stores
all over the world." Tom said.
Tom Ford was born in Austin, Texas, but spent
most of his childhood years back in Santa Fe, New Mexico. As soon as
he became a teenager, he moved to the Big Apple.5
Once in New York, he enrolled at the NY University in art history. This
study path was soon to be changed as he decided to take up architecture
at Parsons School of Design in New York. He later moved on to finish
his studies at Parsons in Paris, France.
Two years later in 1990, Ford crossed the ocean and moved to Milan,
Italy. He joined the team of Gucci as Womenswear Designer. A few years
passed, and in 1992, he moved up the corporate ladder of the fashion
world and once again took on the role of Design Director. His talent
and vision of fashion trends helped him get appointed as Creative Director
of Gucci after only two years.
Maurizio Gucci wanted to fire Tom Ford in
the early '90s because he thought the young designer was too trendy.6
But Ford stuck around and became Creative Director of Gucci in '94.
His first collection was a tremendous commercial and critical success
and managed to turn around the company with a huge jump in profits and
fame.
The mid-90's were a high time for Tom Ford,
as he seemed to win every designer award out there. He is now in charge
of Gucci and Yves St. Laurent's design and image, which are among the
most prestigious fashion houses in the world. Despite his young age,
you can say that Tom Ford has certainly reached the top in his field.
Tom Ford seems to be riding high these days
as the current poster boy for glamorous fashion designers. Unlike his
contemporaries, who tend to be eccentric and over-the-top, Tom is the
epitome of calm, cool, and collected sophistication.7
His calm demeanor and ready smile make a
killer combination with the ladies,8
as women adore being around him. We figure it must be the Mr. Sensitive
side of Tom that few men can easily tap into.9
His greatest asset is the way he handles himself as dignified and professional,
unlike the blundering fools we often are.
He is a good-looking guy. People might not
swing10 that
certain way, but they are not blind to the obvious. The guy has the
look, and women are immediately drawn to him because of it. He is one
of the best dressed men in the world. Even with a receding hairline,
he comes off with enough style and slickness to supply fashion sense
to a dozen mortal men.11
If your idea of cool is hanging around the
local bar on Saturday night playing darts, then Tom will not be part
of your circle of friends. If your idea of cool is being the most prominent
person in a room full of world-weary jetsetters,12
then he is your man. We rate slickness pretty high in our coolness factor,
and Tom happily obliges as Mr. Cool.
1. 他是那种已经迈进了时尚的疯狂世界、却还能看起来很清醒的人。sane:清醒的,明智的。
2. 1998年1月他在为AIDS Benefit组织的义卖活动中举办了他的首次时装秀。runway:延伸舞台,此指时装表演的T型舞台。debut:首次亮相。AIDS
Benefit:即Telluride AIDS Benefit,非盈利性机构,其主要工作是通过区域性教育项目来普及卫生知识、募集资金以资助爱滋病患者。
3. YSL在他掌管之下,同时Gucci还对几家时装公司有控股权。YSL:Yves Saint Laurent,是国际时装界的知名品牌,其Paris(巴黎)、Opium(鸦片)等也赢得了国际香水品牌的卓越地位。under
one's belt:<口>,被……掌握,控制。Gucci:是意大利的著名品牌,产品涉及服装、香水、手表等多个方面,以华贵与前卫著称。
4. coveted:被垂涎的。CFDA:the Council of Fashion Designers of America Awards,
在美国纽约举行,是美国重要的时装设计方面的大奖。
5. 纽约的别称。
6. trendy:赶时髦的,新潮的。
7. 与同时代的那些古怪、做得有点过了头的人不同,汤姆代表着镇静、帅气和成熟。epitome:典型,缩影;collected:冷静的,
镇定的;sophistication:老练,世故。
8. 他沉着的风度和时常的微笑令他特别得到女性的青睐。
9.意思是说汤姆性格中有像Mr. Sensitive一样的地方对女人的心思很了解,而这恰恰是一般男人所不擅长的。Mr. Sensitive是一个妇女论坛(WomensForum)网站的虚拟人物,主持“爱与学”
( Love & Learn)栏目。
10. swing:<俚>活跃地跟上时代,赶时髦。
11. 即使头发已经开始秃了,他仍能通过自己的风格和修饰,把时尚的意蕴展现给世间凡人。slickness:<口>打扮,修饰。
12. world-weary jetsetters:乘喷气式飞机到处旅游的阔佬,往来各地旅游(或办事)的富豪。