Enjoying Hamburger and Digging
up Its History
香喷喷的汉堡包哪里来?
两片对开的面包,内中夹一扁肉饼,再配一片儿生菜叶浇一点儿奶油。没什么复杂的。可就是这种简单的汉堡包走遍了全世界,成了快餐界的王牌,而且在新的世纪里仍大有“花开不败”之态势。
Ah,
still remember summertime? Long afternoons that stretch into lazy evenings.
The taste of lemonade, the sound of the ice cream truck as it rolls
slowly down the block, and the smell of hamburgers grilling from back
porches and freshly cut lawns.(注1)
Of course, we don't just eat hamburgers during
the summer months. Over the course of each year, Americans consume about
14 billion burgers. And we don't always have time to grill them ourselves.
But it is a miracle that hamburger has few competitors in the race for
America's favorite food.(注2) Its simplicity and convenience coupled
with the fact that it can be dressed up almost any way imaginable ---or
not at all ?nbsp;have turned the hamburger into a culinary force to
be reckoned with.(注3)
It's become so ingrained(注4) in our society, in
fact, that it's impossible to think of American cuisine(注5) ?nbsp;not
to mention day-to-day life ?nbsp;without it. Besides providing nourishment
to millions, the popularity of the hamburger also helps fuel the beef
and grain industries,(注6) and --- would you like fries with that? ?nbsp;has
given many a teenager their first job.
By virtue of its ever-increasing reputation, a
lot of people set about digging up the history of the hamburger, and
finally finds that while just about everyone may be able to agree that
burgers taste great, there's a dispute over exactly who we owe our thanks
to.(注7)
Back in the dark ages(注8) of American kitchens,
otherwise known as the mid-to-late 19th century, the hamburger was nowhere
to be found. Sure, we had ground beef, introduced by German immigrants
in the early 1800s, but a Hamburg steak is one giant white-bread step
away from a hamburger.(注9)
Who was the one to take the bun?(注10) As it turns
out, we've got a few competitors. First up, Louis Lassen, original owner
of Louis' Lunch in New Haven(注11). Local legend submits that in 1900
one of Louis' customers wanted lunch in a hurry, so the cook put a beef
patty(注12) between two slices of white bread. Simple enough. And, as
if to provide evidence for the story, the restaurant adheres to that
rule of simplicity today.(注13) Want ketchup or lettuce?(注14) You're
out of luck. Louis' patrons have a choice of tomatoes, onions, or cheese
on their burgers, and nothing else. It's just the way a hamburger should
be served, the proprietors(注15) insist.
And they should know, right? Perhaps, but the town
of Seymour(注16) might beg to differ. Local residents insist that one
Charles Nagreen is the man to whom the long history of the hamburger
can be traced. They claim "Hamburger Charlie" was a vendor
at a local fair in 1885 when he realized that fairgoers on the move
would have an easier time eating his meatballs if he made them more
portable.(注17)Two slices of white bread later, the hamburger was born.
Or was it? Another fairground, another hamburger
inventor. Make that two hamburger inventors. The 1904 World's Fair in
St. Louis(注18) was the location. The two men? Fletcher Davis of Texas
and Frank Menches of Ohio. The respective families of each say it was
their relative who came up with the hamburger.
Lassen, Nagreen, Davis, Menches. Take your pick.
One thing that's not in dispute, however, is the reason hamburgers became
so popular around the last turn of the century. Maybe it's very possible
that more than one person came up with the idea at the same time. In
a changing landscape, it was an idea just waiting to happen.
As an analyst points out, "As the country
grew, America (was) on the run, the cities growing, people in automobiles.
So it was the perfect culinary concoction(注19). And the bottom line
is it tasted pretty great."
The wide-open spaces of America and its growing
automobile culture helped make the hamburger an even bigger success
with the advent of the burger chain restaurant. By 1930, there were
more than 100 restaurants, all serving the exact same burger.
But it was the brothers McDonald, Richard and Maurice,
who opened the fast-food floodgates. The first McDonald's opened in
1948, but business really took off in 1954, when the brothers met Ray
Kroc.(注20) They agreed to let Kroc franchise(注21) the restaurants, which
had an assembly-line production policy that meant short lines and inexpensive
burgers. McDonald's had opened 657 restaurants one decade later.
Today McDonald's is the most popular hamburger
in America, but it's far from the only option. From gourmet burgers
to meatless soy patties at backyard barbecues,(注22) hamburger lovers
have plenty to choose from. And while we may never discover exactly
who it was that first came up with the idea, one thing is clear. Burgers
have been filling American stomachs for a century now, and show no signs
of going away.
1. 长长的下午一直延续到慵懒的晚上。柠檬水的味道,沿街缓缓开过的冰淇淋车的声音,还有从屋后的门廊与新修剪过的草坪那边传过来的烤汉堡包的香味。grill:灸烤。
2. 汉堡包作为最受美国人欢迎的快餐,居然鲜有与之匹敌的,这真是个奇迹。
3. 其简单、方便,还有它可以任你发挥想像力来包装——或者说根本都不用包装——的特点使人们不得不承认它是烹饪食品中的生力军。culinary:烹饪的,厨房的;reckon
with:把……看作,认为。
4. ingrained:根深蒂固的。
5. cuisine:饭菜,菜肴。
6. 除了给数百万人提供营养以外,汉堡包的普及还刺激了牛肉和粮食工业的发展。
7. 或许大家都一致认为汉堡包的确很好吃,但对这项发明到底应该归功于谁却各执一词。
8. dark ages:中世纪,此指19世纪中后叶。
9. 诚然,那时侯我们已经有了牛肉糜——是19世纪早期的德国移民引进过来的——但是,这种汉堡牛排是适应中产阶级口味的,与如今的汉堡包相去甚远。ground
beef:磨碎或绞碎的牛肉;white-bread:适应白人中产阶级口味的。
10. take the bun:<俚>得第一名,得奖。
11. New Haven:纽黑文(美国康涅狄格州南部港市,耶鲁大学所在地)。
12. patty:肉饼。
13. 就像是为这个故事提供证据似的,这个饭馆如今也一直遵循着简单的原则。
14. ketchup:调味蕃茄酱; lettuce:生菜。
15. proprietor:业主,所有人。
16. Seymour:西摩。
17.他们声称“汉堡查理”是本地集市上的一个小贩,1885年时他发现,如果他把牛肉丸做得更好携带的话,匆匆忙忙来赶集的人也许就能更舒服地享用他的食物了。on
the move :奔波中的,正赶路的。
18. St. Louis:圣路易斯,美国密苏里州东部港市。
19. concoction:调和物,调制品。
20. 麦当劳兄弟以较低的价格把自己的点子连同名字卖给了雷·克罗克,后者获得了极大的成功,是他把麦当劳办成了一个成功的连锁企业,而自己也跻身美国最富有的阶层,身价高达数亿美元。
21. franchise:对公司的分店、联号商店的特许经营。
22. gourmet:供美食家享受的,出自美食家之手的;meatless
soy patty:无肉的豆馅饼;barbecue:户外烤肉餐。